Experiments with Colors

Railway Trek - Sakleshpur

Wow! How can I put into words the most memorable and one of the best weekend I had ever had in this wonderful life… I have been really put to test and I’m scared and know that I wouldn’t be able to do justice to those feelings and thoughts by putting into words…but then what communication means should I be using to I express and share those wonderful moments with my dear friends… anyway let me try my best…

I was never as enthusiastic as when Vijay said that we would be trekking on the wkend of 5 and 6 June to Mulaiyanagiri (Western Ghats near Chikamagalur). But a day later he informed me the change in plan and that we would be doing the “Railway Track trekking” (check out http://www.dreamroutes.org/western/edakumeri.html ) near Hassan. This beautiful trek is about walking on an abandoned meter gauge railway line between stations Donigal and Yedukumeri. Since one of Vijay’s common friend of the group was to get married that wkend more than half of the people was to drop out. Vijay revealed the secret at the Majestic Bus stand that it’s only him and me who were to track and rest couldn’t make it because of something or the other reason. I don’t know why that never made any difference to me. (I guess Vijay must have been surprised to see my reaction) I was never worried about the number and had this strong feeling to make it. It’s been 2-3years since I had last been to majestic bus station and was surprised to see the kind of transition it had undergone. I could see Hutch Mobiles chargers here and there, lot of sign boards at every point giving lot of information either it be of map or route info or platform info. Thanks to Private-Government handshake… what would have been the kinda of scene if this were to happen a decade or half a decade ago…

Finally the “RajaHamsa” left Bangalore at 12 midnight and reached Sakleshpur at 4.12 AM 5 June Saturday. Since it was too early to trek thought we get freshen and have something to eat. The Bus stand Hotel guy said that it would open only at 5.30AM and I was happy that he was making them fresh with lot of varieties. So we waited and finally the counter opened. To my bad luck, I was disappointed with the kind of idlis and chutneys he served. So we gave up our breakfast and took an auto till the railway station from where we started trekking.

It was the most exciting journey I had ever imagined. As mentioned by people in other travelogues, first 2 km or so was all plain with lots of green on either side. The music session was live all along the way from different kind of Birds. It was such pleasure to listen such vivid varieties of tunes and voices. And then comes the first bridge.

From a distance of about 20mts it’s a railway bridge like any other but as I went close to it I started shivering. As you know railway tracks have wooden plank arranged parallel if its on ground pebbles are filled between them but on bridge its



left empty so there is a gap. We were supposed to cross the bridge by walking on wooden plank. I kept my leg on the first wooden plank and was above to keep my another leg I saw the gap and realized that the depth would be at least about 500mts. My legs started shivering but I had to cross, as there was no other way. So I came back and made few strategies and started all again, ultimately made it. As we began to cross it, we realized the challenges that lie ahead! But until much later, we wouldn't know that it'd get only tougher and tougher from there on!

Then we continued further, and the bridges became scarier and scarier - the longer the scarier. More than anything, the slippery wooden plank were scaring shit outta us. After setting one foot on every next wooden log, we were not sure if we would make it without slipping! And it was becoming a problem.

I think it was bridge number 11 which was pretty long and at one point I stood there without moving cos I had lost all the hopes said that I’m not gonna do it. My legs were shivering and to add to it there was imbalance due the luggage on my back. Vijay was already ahead of me and I called him for help.(Poor chap he too was in bad shape ) both of us were scared , luckily there was a villager who was passing by and took his help to cross one plank which was round enough not to get the grip, after that momentum was built in me. The funda we realized was to keep going without looking down between the wooden plank. One look at the gap we were gone shit scared and we used to go back few steps and start all again to get that momentum. Later found kind of a roundabout way to deal with this: Instead of walking in between the rails, where you stare right into the depth while stepping from log to log, I found walking on the sides (outside the rails) much easier! My reason: There was a steel girder beneath planks on the outside, which gave me a psychological help! On the other hand, thought that walking outside the rails was not a very good idea 'cause if you fall, there's nothing you can hold on to - you'd fall straight down (as compared to between the rails where there's some width available to accommodate you).


In tunnel number 7 or 8 not sure, we saw a door on the right side and coming outside that door, we could see from little plain ground available, the mighty river in the gorge down below falling over rocks with its full force. It was a scary and fantabulous sight, both at the same time.

I think it was tunnel #14 that was about 540mts lengthy. One of the longest that we had come across. We moved about 200mts inside, it was dead dark and could hear some strange voices and We went back in the direction we came, we didn’t know what to do and said that we will wait there at the entrance till other groups join us. But after few minutes we finally decided to do ourselves, Vijay found a piece of cloth and lighted it by wrapping it around his stick (which we were using as walking stick). We started altogether with naya josh till it was about 300mts when some thing blasted. Vijay cried “amma….amma ……….(after few seconds once he got senses said) yeah Ravi Somebody has kept the crackers” And when he shouted I thought that we are not gonna return home alive..… Then I went close to him and we found that it was nothing but the bamboo stick (around which we had wrapped the cloth) that had burst….

As enjoyable as the views were, we were getting more and more unnerved with every new bridge. Bridges were getting scarier and scarier - longer and higher! It had come to the point where we were not sure of our very own feet. We were not confident if the foot we were keeping on next wooden log would hold or not! And then came the 'killer bridge' (I am naming it that!) : Bridge #20. Man, it was real high and hence real scary. To make matters worse, there was a vehement river flowing down in the gorge. And as if that was not enough, iron strip between the rails was missing at some of the most crucial points. Such as in the middle of the river's breadth, lets say! At this bridge, I wasn't really sure that why the heck was I doing it. But there was no option because the only option (?) - if we can call it that - was to return to Donigal via all the other killer bridges that we had crossed already! Vijay came till 70% of the distance and started shouting from there for help but I was almost done with this monster. He was in the same condition as I was on the earlier bridge. Here there was no trace of human beings to ask for help so I made up my mind to change my direction towards him. But the time I went to him, he was done with that log which was kinda round so keeping foot on it and getting the grip was difficult.

Passed through numerous waterfalls, rivulets and rivers. And then, after one particular tunnel, we came across one of the most beautiful sights: Vijay asked me where is the track? I had not realized till he mentioned that.... Then I said we would go ahead and take chance. Culprit were the Railway tracks covered with plush green grass, as a result of which you could not see where it was going after a few meters. It kinda disappeared in a THICK green jungle. Only, this place and sight was real! Too good to believe!

At this point when we reached it was already 2.20PM, we found out that it was another 5-6kms of distance that needs to be covered in order to reach the destination “Yedakumary”. We both were dragging ourselves the fact that we don’t have to cross any more bridges kept us moving. On this steep uphill trail we came across many streams, small waterfalls and great scenic views. We kept on walking being part of nature and praising it beauty. There was one friend of us who accompanied all the way with us Vijay said it was “Bird”. We saw the track split into two and Vijay sensed that the station was close by. It was 3:05 PM and I took a turn to the right and could see some houses to the far. We were so proud that we were just few minutes away from the victory….




We made diesel room as the palace to stay overnight through whose windows one could have the greatest view of the Western Ghats. The palace had one old machine (I guess it was some kinda engine) and good enough space to sleep for 2. There was another room attached without any dividing wall in between. The roof was made of asbestos sheets and was open at few places. After it was about 50-60mins it started raining heavily (Though it did drizzle a few times on the way never really rained this heavily). Few drops started falling through the holes on the asbestos roof onto to the sheet I was using to sleep and on my body. Forget about moving to a different place I was not able to move my body and somehow managed to sleep for about an hour and half. Then our master cook Vijay took out his tiny wonder stove and cooked Pongal for me. All thanks to MTR ready to eat. I took my chance and cooked Curry Noodles from Top Ramen (I didn’t like this sick flavour). I crashed as soon as I was done with the food and Vijay was making Lemon tea and enjoying. We did stroll on the platform for sometime enjoying the rain amidst the dense forest. Later in the evening Vijay started his campfire in fireplace inside our palace using the Diesel which we had carried. He was falling short of firewood, so what ever he saw was in the fireplace. He listed the advantages of fire that it would keep away the wild animals in night and at the same time would warm us. So we had to find something to keep the fire on the whole night. Finally we had to remove the broken window of our palace and use it for fire. I tasted a bit of Rajma Rice (once again thanks to MTR ready food) which he made for Dinner and slept. I don’t know what happened later only to find that when I woke up around 3AM found him sleeping. I couldn’t sleep and kept myself awake after that as fire was all over and thought that wild animals would dodge anytime.

Next morning we got fresh and cooked kharabath and lemon tea and left around 6.45AM towards highway. There were 2 routes one shorter but damn slippery, steep with lot of leeches and other the longer uphill. So we took the longer and safe route as didn’t wanna take chance with leeches. On the way met few Phirangs (foreigners) and one of the member had his leg totally bitten by leeches and blood all over his leg. I wished him and other people especially the cute lady in the gang and headed forward. I was scared and watched myself while walking as to avoid leeches. Since it had rained last evening the path was muddy all the way so it was tough in the sense that had to avoid any slipping. This was about 6-7kms steep up and down trekking. We met few local railway workers on the way and they showed the way and we were able to reach the main road by about 10AM. We cleaned our shoes and changed clothes and Vijay did try swimming there at the river stream very close to the main road. Then we found the KSRTC bus stopping in front of us that took us to Hassan. We were desperately wanted to celebrate victory so headed towards a restaurant where we can find some good food.

Then left Hassan in “Raja Hamsa” towards Bangalore around 1PM and reached Bangalore at 5.50PM. Even at this moment of scribbling my experiences there’s this strange feeling running on my mind……..

Muthodi Travelogue

Hi Guys!! Me back again with another trekking story to share with you all though a bit lengthier bear with it.
Since we had a long weekend on the month end of October my trekking partner Vijay came up with Muthodi forest but this time it was to be with Youth Hostel (check the link for more info http://www.yhaindia.org). Vijay’s parents been trekking for sometime thru this organization so we thought we might try it as we knew this going to be much organized and different all together as compared to our earlier railway trek. This time we were three i.e. myself, Vijay and his wife Rashmi. We were to assemble at their Cunningham rd office and start from there. We left on late Friday evening and were waiting at their office for the entire team to assemble. One of Rashmi’s friend Triveni joined us and she was introduced. I could see one small kid who must be in higher secondary along with her dad who had come to see her off and another bunch of 3 young chaps all excited (I guess they were first time trekkers gleam in their eyes said it all) but me and Vijay were more interested in that aroma of Biryani that was coming from the party inside the compound area. I was much excited with the idea that we were 30 of us were to trek. Finally the organizer we call him a lead came with the list of attendees to take the attendance. His name is Shashidhar who has been conducting these treks don’t know for how long… He briefed a bit on the high level plan and asked us to sit in one of the 2 maxi cabs. So we all started at around 11PM from Bangalore towards Muthodi forest. I had to struggle a lot to sleep in the cab, as the leg space was too less not that I’m grown so tall ;-) I had glimpse of other attendees from 2nd cab only at the time Shashidar ordered for tea for all of us at the dhaba. Finally with lot of fight reached Muthodi forest at the early hours of Saturday morning. We were told that we would start around 9AM after brief rest and were given dormitories. Vijay and me picked up one bed and crashed.
I woke up around 8.30AM and saw Vijay talking to this person (Remember this guy, he’s such an interesting person would tell you more) who was in the same row as ours. We all assembled around 9.30AM for the breakfast and tea. Then we had this briefing about all the activities we were suppose to do for the day and after. We were based at 2500+ ft and were suppose to reach destination Muliangiri at 6000+ ft, which is the highest peak in Karnataka. We had this programme where each one introduced themselves to the group. I was really amazed by the variety of people,
we had 2 retired people in the age group of 60s, one kid from class 7 and another from class 9 and the rest falling in the age group 20-30 belonging to profession like medical store, IT guys, bio technicians, students to unemployed. There was a brief introduction on the Muthodi forest by the Forest officer. We were told that Muthodi (http://www.outlooktraveller.com/aspscripts/travelogue.asp?dest=bhadra) is known for wildlife like Gaur, chital, sambar, elephants and tigers and off course Bamboo plants. During this April there was a forest fire and most of the forest was burnt (http://www.deccanherald.com/deccanherald/apr062004/spt4.asp). Thanks to Varuna for showing some mercy on us by showering record time rain that has helped Muthodi to dress herself with some green.




DAY1 :Route : Muthodi -> Shigakan Estate -> Mitylkan Estate -> ElnoorkanEstate -> Sithalayan MattaEvening : Interaction Program @ the camp.Distance : 17 Kms ApproxDAY2Morning: Nature trail.Route : Sithalayan Matta -> Muliangiri -> Kavikalgandi -> Manikedhara Falls.Distance : 16 Kms AppoxReturn on Day2 or Day3 to bangalore depending on the situation
We were like kids eagerly waiting to start off. A forest guard too accompanied us as per the rules but the guy was drunk early in the morning. I feel that’s not his fault but to live in forest day in and out to guard with the kind of facilities government provides and being away from family and climbing up and down the mountains with so much of physical strenuous work one has to be really drunk. A normal human being can’t do this. Initially it was a trek on road for 3-4 kilometers that was on the mountainsides giving us clear and beautiful scenery of other Western Ghats mountains. Those were the moments, one should experience anything of that sort put to words is always injustice done, it took away all the pain and strain. On the way Shashidar did find one small green snake and he held that in the stick to show everyone. Some one called it ‘Green snake’ another called it ‘flying snake’ as it was trying to jump off the stick. As the journey continued it was getting tougher and beauteous as we were claiming the height. Our forest guard was lost who was supposed to lead us then we had to wait for about an hour and half to find him back. Meanwhile some were indulged in exploring/tasting different kinds of fresh fruits available around and some took the help of sleep to relieve the strain. Unlike last trip I could find different kinds of flora species with unique color combination right from stem to leaves to flowers wish I had studied Botany better during my college days J. We did find lots of fallen ripe oranges on ground, which we relished. This reminded me of my school days where we used to buy these small oranges for 25Paise and relish. It was the same pleasure. Finally our man arrives but still we took the help of local Mitylkan Estate worker to lead us thru their estate and he was much enthusiastic. Dude this was another difficult path with too much inclination and slippery soil. We used the coffee plant braches as the grip and moved on but still people had to smell the soil here and there. Everyone fought hard for about less than an hour to finally climb up the peak and there was better treat that awaited us for the job well done. There could have never been a better treat than this its like all of a sudden from coffee plantation you suddenly get into plain sloppy grassland with yellowed leaves grown about 3-4 ft from the ground, everyone was stunned at the view. We were lost in heaven and we could no more feel the strain and everything was washed away with this scenic beauty, emotions poured in. Every one sat on the grass having that wonderful view that had mountains including Kemmangundi over which was clear sky with variation in blues over those mountains. I guess that’s what inspires everyone at trekking to move ahead to explore much more beautiful places like this all along the way. Cant we relate this to our own journey in life where after each hard fight awaits a gift that keeps us spirit of fighting till the last breath… Each place being much better than other as if they were competing with each other. I swear I could have been terribly failed if I had to rate them. We spent sometime surrendering ourselves to the nature after having energy balls continued our journey towards Elnoorkan estate.
Again it was back to road trek with both side decorated with flowers bearing unimaginary contrast colors and this would have been the best place for any painting artist to learn about colors. I do bit of oil painting but can’t imagine of such variations in color absolutely marvelous creation. By this time everyone were hungry and we found a place with water to have our lunch. The menu included dry chapattis with chutney pudi (a powder made out of various grams usually can be found in Andhra style restaurants), ghee and pickles. After a brief break we set again towards our Day 1 target. By this time we should have been done about 10-11kms but many of us were still filled with same enthusiastic as we stared, there was no difference in temperature it’s the same cold breeze of the purest form available thru out the day as if its been set as in Air conditioner that helped us to walk more and more.
It wouldn’t have been worth without mentioning my mates all along the trek. One of the retired senior person from SBI bank had trash bag collecting all the plastic thru out the way and serving in his own way to protect green. We had another interesting person Murali I had mentioned in initial paragraph was working for SBI bank for about 8-9 years and put his paper to join Iflex when they were transferring him to a different bank branch. He’s trekked all over India except north-east (because of terrorism activism). He’s unmarried and makes sure that every weekend he’s trekking. He carries with him the abundance experience that only blessed few ones can have and such jovial person who keeps the team always laughing either the topic be a comparison between Bank and a IT company or be it culture of US/UK or Politics or commenting onto Nagaraj’s statements or you name it. Nagaraj was another person in the group who kept the mood of the group in confusion whether to laugh or to cry by either be it calling his wife thru the new Nokia mobile by putting it in speaker mode on top of the hill or taking picture of his son thru this camera phone or be it suggesting for full fledged meals during the trek. Bhagyesh had this huge lens attached to his SLR camera I call it Telescope a scope probably he wanted to take pictures of the craters on the moon being at the highest peak and this guys had all sort of trekking gadgets. I was told that he started trekking recently but has been addicted and also carries more weight than needed in order to prepare for the Himalayan trek. The fastest walker was this class 7 kid and he was always ahead of all of us though he had heavy baggage on his back thru out the trek and was named ‘Man of the Match’ by the eldest retired person.
After taking a small break we started from Elnoorkan estate towards our destination for Day 1 Sithalayan Matta that was about another 7-8kms of walk but by this time Rashmi was already exhausted, was taking help of Vijay. This was kind of road trek on the edges of the mountain with small stones on the road that made our walk uncomfortable. We had walked about couple of kilometers and Rashmi lost all her energy. Luckily they found truck that passed by and she & Vijay took the help of it but we were determined to walk at what ever cost. Triveni and me were repenting for not passing our luggage with them. But I’m sure that we wouldn’t have passed at any cost that was the kinda determination. On the way our lead shashidar was sharing all his experiences during initial days of trekking career and he knew that we were totally exhausted but always kept lying that we were close to the destination. After more than hour of exhaustive trek we found the board bearing distance of .6km to our destination. At last we reached the destination and saw Vijay welcoming us… It was a yet another memorable victory in our lives. But I was so exhausted (I believe others too) was unable to bend and sit down on the ground but with great pain somehow managed to remove my shoes off and threw my baggage crashed on the sleeping mat. Vijay gave me couple of pain killer tablets that I swallowed without asking anything and slept.


Sithalayan Matta has historic significance but me not sure of it and all I know is that this temple been in existence for at least a century and this swamiji is used to come here from Bababudangiri thru the tunnel that’s about 13kms. Youth Hostel had made arrangements for dinner, breakfast and for the night stay at Priest’s home. It was one of those typical traditional homes with tiled roof. We were given one lengthy room for 20+ of us and ladies had their own luxury suite. There was a call for Dinner and I was not even able to get up had to take help of my neighbor. Feast started with Payasam (kheer) and ended with buttermilk. We relished, I did too except the curd/buttermilk, as I have never tasted it in my life and I believe Vijay too J. Outside it was freezing cold with bit of drizzling but had to go to wash our hands and plates as part of rituals. As part of youth hostel formalities there was this knowledge sharing session where each participant shared their business domain and other related topics after which followed Anthakshari. Guys were so enthusiastic that even at 11pm there was no sign it getting over. Murali and other bad boys like me were fighting hard to end it at last after another 30mins they ended it. Then was the sleeping session all we had was sleeping mats beneath us with one bed sheet on top that everyone had carried to save ourselves from the cold. We had closed all the windows but Nagaraj wanted it to be open as his theory was that if we don’t open the room windows it would be filled with carbon dioxide. We all were in one direction and he alone was always in different direction may it be any thought luckily at least he was always in the same route as us. We said its better to open take the pain rather than to hear his stupid explanations/comments. Me, Vijay always enjoyed Murali’s comments either it be to reply to Nagaraj’s statement or be it western /Indian culture or be it comparison of software to public sector but in one sentence this guy is very knowledgeable.
Next day we woke up early, to add to our joy the weather was much chiller with visibility limited to 10meters distance but we managed to freshen up in that weather. We had hot lemon tea in the morning to kick off our activities for the day. We were told that since we would be claiming another 2000ft the temperature would be much less. We found police battalion outside the house chalking out the strategies for security. That day BJP and Bhajarang Dal had called for some ceremony at Bababudangiri (lot of info are available on internet over the controversy on the shrine). Due to this we slightly changed our plan that we would not go to Bababudangiri instead another place close to it. We were served vegetable pulav for breakfast (it was very delicious) and packed Puliyogare (tamarind rice) and curd rice for lunch. Then we were all set to start the trek towards Mulaingiri. It was steep climb initially about an hour and made sure that we don’t have gaps in between to avoid people loosing their track, as it was too foggy. Once I hit the man made stone steps (about 900 of them) to Mulianagiri I was sure that we were close to our target (I was here to this place beginning of last month ;-)) Hurray!!! Yes we had conquered Mulianagiri the highest peak in Karnataka. I wonder which was better are the experiences during the journey towards the peak and the feeling after achieved the target? Everyone gave his or her own names to the peak but we all agreed to “K1”. We took the snaps with the youth hostel banner, the breeze was so powerful (remember it was 12 noon the time we reached the peak) that it used to carry us. We took darshan of God SHIV at the temple and left for other part of trek to be completed.
The poojari (priest) agreed to show us the way. Man!! Believe me or not this was the most adventurous and best part of the trek. We were to climb down the steep (at an angle of 80-85 degrees) and there was no grip on the ground as it was drizzling. Our professional trekkers were put to help other amateurs. Many of us hit ground luckily at the right places otherwise I wouldn’t have been here to share my experience. One small mistake yes u r there!! Probably would have taken days just to find body. We were having breaks in between during 2 hours of hard trek in the drizzling rain. At one point we could hear faded melodious songs from distance, Triveni (she had been trekking hard all the time) was very excited to realize that we are close to our destination. As we walked we were getting close to the road and finally hit the road. We were about to walk another 4kms to reach our final destination but people were exhausted leader changed his plan and called it a day (it was 3 PM). Couple of people took help of bikers moving by to get our maxi cab to the place so that once we find water point we could have our lunch and leave for Bangalore. Luckily there was a house nearby we decided to have our lunch there and even they provided space to change our clothes, as it was drenched badly.



We were all set to travel back home and I had to sit in the other cab, as there was no space in the one Vijay’s was seated. To surprise it didn’t have one of window glass as one of the guys from our group had broken while taking out the luggage and had to face the wind blows. Sardarji had put a think blanket on his face along with jacket on his body to save himself, he was the one sitting next to the broken window and in front of me. In fact it was very hard for me to sit like that all the way till Bangalore, then struck an idea I took out the sleeping map lying next to me (I was at the last seat) and fixed it against the window. Still due the force it used to push the sleeping mat inside (sleeping mats weighs less than 200gms) so we had to put ourselves against it and travel. Next to me was Manjunath one of the veteran trekker and formally trained mountaineering graduate and I started asking him about his experiences and life. My first question was where does he work. I got an answer that I could have never thought of in my life. He said that he doesn’t want to work as he always has to obey someone and that limits his freedom of doing what he wants to. I believe he has done kind of work right from mason to training jawans. He also helps his friends/people back home who are less fortunate may it be financing for their studies or providing facilities to pursue their interests thru his contacts. He’s a graduate in psychology from one of the best schools in Bangalore and pursuing his post graduation in Law. He told me that he has taken permission from his principal by convincing him of his ideology to exempt from attending classes and gets involved in these activities. I was really moved by his thought process and his plans for future. I thank god for being associated with such a special person in my life and it was those sentences that were ringing in my ears until I reached Bangalore. Some day may not be too long from now I would definitely be part of such an initiave sponsoring those kids…………….